Валери Стил - Парижская мода. Культурная история

«Его качает, но он не тонет» (лат.).

Gilbert D. From Paris to Shanghai: The Changing Geographies of Fashion’s World Cities // Christopher Breward and David Gilbert / Еds Fashion’s World Cities. Oxford; New York: Berg, 2006. Рp. 3–4.

Dejean J. How Paris Became Paris: The Invention of the Modern City. London: Bloomsbury, 2014. Р. 145.

Dictionnaire universal (1692), цит. по: Heller S.-G. Fashion in Medieval France. Cambridge: D. S. Brewer, 2007. Р. 20.

Шарль Ле Мер, цит. по: Dejean J. How Paris Became Paris. Р. 162.

Roche D. The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the «ancien régime» / Transl. by Jean Birrell. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1989. Pp. 474–475.

Луи-Антуан Караччиоли, цит. по: Dejean J. How Paris Became Paris. P. 144.

Rublack U. Dressing Up: Cultural Identity in Renaissance Europe. New York; Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2010. Pp. 281–282.

Английская стыдливость (фр.).

Perrot Ph. Fashioning the Bourgeoisie. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1994. P. 189. Рус. пер. цит. по: Токвиль А. де. Демократия в Америке / Пер. с фр. Д. П. Олейника, Е. П. Орловой, И. А. Малаховой, И. Э. Иванш, Б. Н. Ворожцова. Предисл. Гарольда Дж. Ласки. М.: Прогресс, 1992. С. 395.

Higonnet P. Paris, Capital of the World. Cambridge; London: Harvard University Press, 2002. P. 117.

Dumas A. et al. Paris et les parisiennes au XIXe siècle. Paris: Morizot, 1856. P. iii.

Delord T. Physiologie de la parisienne. Paris: Aubert, 1841. P. 23.

Merritt M. A. Dress Reform Practically and Physiologically Considered. Buffalo: Jewett, Thomas, and Co., 1852. P. 59.

Russell F. E. Freedom in Dress for Women // The Arena. 1893. 6. June. P. 74.

Russell F. E. Women’s Dress // The Arena. 1891. 3. February. P. 359.

Perrot. Fashioning the Bourgeoisie: A History of Clothing in the Nineteenth Century / Transl. by Richard Bienvenu. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1994. P. 73.

Ladies’ Home Journal. 1893. April. P. 29.

Uzanne L. O. The Modern Parisienne. London: William Heinemann, 1912. P. 34. Впервые опубл. в: La Femme à Paris. Paris: Quantin, 1894.

d’Avenel G. Le Méchanisme de la vie moderne. Paris: Armand Colin, 1900–1905. Vol. 4. Pp. 1–2, 4, 12.

Goncourt Journal, цит. по: Clark T. J. The Painting of Modern Life. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1999. Pp. 34–35.

Lieberson S. A Matter of Taste: How Names, Fashions, and Culture Change. New Haven; London: Yale University Press, 2000.

Scott M. Late Gothic Europe, 1400–1500. The History of Dress Series. London: Mills & Boon, 1980. P. 58.

Challamel J. A. The History of Fashion in France. London: S. Low, Marston, Searle, and Rivington, 1882. P. 51.

Heller S.-G. Fashion in Medieval France. Cambridge, UK: D. S. Brewer, 2007. Pp. 46, 59.

Stuard S. M. Gilding the Market: Luxury and Fashion in Fourteenth-Century Italy. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania, 2006. Pp. 1–4.

Boucher F. Histoire du costume en occident de l’antiquité à nos jours. Paris: Flammarion, 1965. Pp. 191–195; Post P. La Naissance du costume masculin moderne au XIVe siècle // Actes du Ier Congrès International d’histoire du Costume. Venice: Centro Internazionale delle Arti e del Costume, 1955. Pp. 28–41.

Fashions and Textiles at the Court of Burgundy // CIBA Review. 51. 1946; Beaulieu M., Bayle J. Le Costume en Bourgogne de Philippe le hardi à la mort de Charles le téméraire (1364–1477). Paris: Presses Universitaires de France, 1956. P. 186; Erlanger Ph. The Age of Courts and Kings. London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1967. P. 17. См. также: Piponnier F. Costume et vie sociale: la cour d’Anjou XIVe–XVe siècle. Paris: Mouton et cie., 1970; Vaughan R. Valois Burgundy. London: Archon Books, 1975.

Beaulieu and Bayle. Le Costume en Bourgogne. Pp. 185–186; Fashions and Textiles at the Court of Burgundy. Pp. 1843, 1847.

Fashions and Textiles at the Court of Burgundy. P. 1850; Beaulieu and Bayle. Le Costume en Bourgogne. Pp. 125–129.

Hollander A. Seeing Through Clothes. New York: Viking, 1978. Pp. 367–369.

Morris I. The World of the Shining Prince. New York: Oxford University Press, 1964. Pp. 38, 206.

Francks P. Was Fashion a European Invention? The Kimono and Economic Development in Japan // Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 2015. Vol. 19.3. June. Pp. 331–361. См. также: Ikegami E. Bonds of civility: Aesthetic Networks and the Political Origins of Japanese Culture. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2005. P. 247.

Brook T. The Confusions of Pleasure: Commerce and Culture in Ming China. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1998. P. 220.

Ibid. P. 221.

Colomer J. L. Black and the Royal Image // José Luis Colomer and Amalia Descalzo, eds. Spanish Fashion at the Courts of Early Modern Europe. Madrid: Centro de Estudios Europa Hispánica, 2014. Vol. 1. P. 78.

Colomer. Black and the Royal Image. P. 90.

Batterberry M., Batterberry A. Fashion, The Mirror of History. New York: Greenwich House, 1977. P. 119.

Ribeiro A. A Story of Pride and Prejudice: Perceptions of Spanish Dress in Seventeenth-Century England // Colomer and Descalzo, Spanish Fashion. 2014. Vol. II. Pp. 317–340.

Madame de Motteville, цит. по: Wiley L. The Formal French. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1967. P. 171.

Mossiker F. Madame de Sévigné: A Life and Letters. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1983. P. 224.

Женщины-портнихи (фр.).

Roche D. The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the Ancient Regime. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1996. Pp. 86–117, 144–145.

Crowston C. H. Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France, 1675–1791. Durham; London: Duke University Press, 2001. P. 12.

Mercure Galant (1672), цит. по: Crowston. Р. 30.

DeJean J. The Essence of Style: How the French Invented High Fashion, Fine Food, Chic Cafés, Style, Sophistication, and Glamour. New York; London: Free Press, 2005. Pp. 47–48.

Lacroix P. The Eighteenth Century: Its Institutions, Customs, and Costumes. France, 1700–1789. London: Bickers & Son, n. d. P. 458.

The Present State of the Court of France, and the City of Paris (1712), цит. по: Ribeiro A. Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe 1715–1789. London: B. T. Batsford Ltd., 1984. P. 20.

Perrot. Les Dessus et les dessous. Paris: Fayard, 1981. Pp. 34–35.

Le Tableau de Paris (Amsterdam, 1782–1788), and Le Nouveau Paris (Paris, 1798) / Abridged and translated by Wilfred and Emilie Jackson. The Picture of Paris Before and After the Revolution. London: George Routledge & Sons, 1929. P. 9; Le Tableau de Paris / Only by Helen Simpson. The Waiting City, Paris 1782–1788. London: George G. Harrap, 1933. Pp. 240–241, 52. См. также: Giafferri P.-L. de. The History of French Masculine Costume. New York: Foreign Publications, 1927. Section 63; Perrot Ph. Les Dessus et les dessous de la bourgeoisie: Une histoire du vêtement au XIXe siècle. Paris: Librairie Arthème Fayard, 1981. Pp. 33–34. Рус. пер. цит. по: Мерсье Л.-С. Картины Парижа / Пер. В. А. Барбашевой. М.; Л., 1936. Т. 1. С. 3, 387–388.

Ribeiro. Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe. P. 18.

Rousseau. La Nouvelle Héloïse, цит. по: Perrot. Les Dessus et les dessous. P. 301. Рус. пер. цит. по: Руссо Ж.-Ж. Юлия, или Новая Элоиза / Пер. Н. И. Немчиновой и А. А. Худаковой // Руссо Ж.-Ж. Избр. соч.: В 3 т. М., 1961. С. 196.

Mercier / Transl. Simpson. The Waiting City. P. 273.

Ibid. P. 135.

Непринужденный (фр.).

Mercier / Transl. Jackson. The Picture of Paris. P. 18; transl. Simpson. The Waiting City. P. 135. Рус. пер. цит. по: Мерсье Л.-С. Картины Парижа / Пер. В. А. Барбашевой. М.; Л., 1936. Т. 1. С. 193.

George M. D. English Political Caricature. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1959. P. 147; Macaroni and Theatrical Magazine. 1772. October, цит. по: George M. D. Hogarth to Cruikshank: Social Change in Graphic Satire. London: Penguin, 1967. P. 59. См. также: Steele V. The Social and Political Significance of Macaroni Fashion // Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society. 1985. 19. Pp. 94–109.

Town and Country Magazine. 1771. November. P. 598.

Bickerstaff I. Lionel and Clarissa (a comic opera). C. 1768, цит. по: Rhead W. H. Chats on Costume. London, 1906. P. 104; The London Magazine: or, Gentleman’s Monthly Intelligencer. 1772. April. P. 193.

Hitchcock R. The Macaroni. A Comedy. New York: A. Ward, 1773. Pp. 1, 5, 70. Prologue, Epilogue.

Щеголь (фр.).

Bell Q. On Human Finery, 2nd ed. New York: Schocken Books. 1978. P. 125.

Воксал (увеселительное пространство: помещение или парк), клуб, жокеев, фраки, виски, пунш, сплин и одержимость самоубийством (фр.).