Эйда Кэлхун - Библия моды
- Название:Библия моды
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- Издательство:Array Литагент «Аттикус»
- Год:2014
- ISBN:978-5-389-08009-6
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Эйда Кэлхун - Библия моды краткое содержание
Тим Ганн, умный и неотразимо обаятельный ведущий шоу «Проект Подиум», в своей книге-путеводителе рассказывает увлекательную историю каждого предмета одежды с древнейших времен. Вместе с ним вы отправитесь в путешествие по миру высокой моды, узнаете о взлетах и падениях в ее истории, об эволюции самых разных вещей – от короны Клеопатры до сандалий Елены Прекрасной, от корсета королевы Виктории до конусообразного бюстгальтера Мадонны, от деловых костюмов героев сериала «Династия» до брючных костюмов Хиллари Клинтон.
Великий знаток и исследователь моды, Тим рассказывает, как 1960-е годы «убили» нижнее белье в Америке, Бо Браммелл создал образ, которому мужчины следовали больше века, а капри с накладными карманами стали чумой, сразившей американцев.
Остроумный и безупречно элегантный Ганн поможет вам по-новому взглянуть на свой гардероб. Его удивительная книга вдохновит вас, расширит и изменит представление о прошлом, настоящем и будущем моды!
Библия моды - читать онлайн бесплатно полную версию (весь текст целиком)
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19. Charlotte Brunel, The T-Shirt Book, foreword by Bruno Collin (New York: Assouline, 2002), 14.
20. Imani Perry, “‘Malcolm X,’ by Manning Marable,” San Francisco Chronicle (April 24, 2011), www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/04/23/RV611J2B0B.DTL.
21. Harris, The White T, 13.
22. Michiko Kakutani, “Brand Che: Revolutionary as Marketer’s Dream,” The New York Times, April 20, 2009, www.nytimes.com/2009/04/21/books/21kaku.html?scp=1sq=&st=nyt.
23. Ibid.
24. www.condenaststore.com/-sp/Che-Guevara-wearing-a-Bart-Simpson-T-shirt-New-Yorker-Cartoon-Prints_i8544414_.htm.
25. Brunel, The T-Shirt Book, 9.
3. Jeans: The Italian, French, German, English, Indian, All-American Garment
1. James Sullivan, Jeans: The Cultural History of an American Icon (New York: Gotham Books, 2006), 14.
2. Clare Sauro, “Jeans,” in A – Z of Fashion.
3. Ibid.
4. http://blog.urbanoutfitters.com/features/the_levis_archives?cm_mmc=broadcast-_-Q32010-_-100812levisBuyers-_-banner&cm_lm=ashleyelizabethk@gmail.com.
5. Robert Selbie, The Anatomy of Costume (New York: Crescent Books, 1977), 4.
6. Sullivan, Jeans, 13.
7. Carl Sandburg, Abraham Lincoln: The Prairie Years and the War Years, ed. Edward C. Goodman (Boston: Mariner Books, 2002), 27.
8. www.forbes.com/2005/11/29/most-expensive-jeans-cx_sy_1130feat_ls.html.
4. Dresses: From the
Toga to the Wrap Dress
1. Phyllis Tortora, “Toga” in A – Z of Fashion.
2. Robert Selbie, The Anatomy of Costume (New York: Crescent Books, 1977), 18.
3. Ibid., 14.
4. www.stanford.edu/~plomio/history.html.
5. François Boucher, 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment, expanded ed. (New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1987), 303.
6. Patricia A. Cunningham, “Dress Reform,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 3, The United States and Canada.
7. Rebecca Arnold, “Madeleine Vionnet,” in A – Z of Fashion.
8. James Laver, Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution Until Today (London: G. G. Harrap, 1937), 124.
9. Hal Vaughan, Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel’s Secret War (New York: Knopf, 2011), 142.
10. Liz Mellish, “Early History of Dress,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 9, East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus.
11. Gillian Tineke Vogelsang-Eastwood Rooijakkers, “Egypt: Historical Dress,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 1, Africa.
12. Ibid.
13. Ibid.
14. James Laver, Costume (London: Cassell, 1963), 7.
15. Ibid., 32.
16. Ibid., 36.
17. Ibid., 45.
18. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 97.
19. Ibid., 97.
20. Melissa Leventon, What People Wore When: A Complete Illustrated History of Costume from Ancient Times to the Nineteenth Century for Every Level of Society (New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 2008), 154–155.
21. Boucher, 20,000 Years of Fashion, 251.
22. Ibid., 291.
23. Laver, Costume and Fashion, 130.
24. Alison Lurie, The Language of Clothes (New York: Henry Holt, 2000), 64.
25. Ibid., 69.
26. Laver, Costume and Fashion, 184–186.
27. Key Moments in Fashion: From Haute Couture to Streetwear, Key Collections, Major Figures and Crucial Moments That Changed the Course of Fashion History from 1890 to the 1990s (London: Hamlyn, 1998), 15.
28. Anne Stegemeyer, Who’s Who in Fashion, 2nd ed. (New York: Fairchild Publications, 1988), 5.
29. Ibid., 32.
30. “Carmen Says: A Couture Veteran Discusses the Way Things Were, Are, and May Never Be Again,” Garmento, Issue 1 (2010), 45.
31. GeoffreyBeane.com.
32. Jane Eastoe and Sarah Gristwood, Fabulous Frocks (London: Pavilion, 2008), 6–7.
33. Judith Watt, ed., The Penguin Book of Twentieth-Century Fashion Writing (New York: Viking, 1999), 175.
34. Arnold Scaasi, Women I Have Dressed (and Undressed!) (New York: Scribner, 2004), 111–112.
35. Caroline Evans, Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness (New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 2003), 71.
36. Urmee Khan, “Liz Hurley ‘Safety Pin’ Dress Voted the Greatest Dress,” The Telegraph (October 9, 2008), www.telegraph.co.uk/news/celebritynews/3167702/LizHurley-safety-pin-dress-voted-the-greatest-dress.html.
37. Georgina O’Hara, The Encyclopedia of Fashion (New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1986), 32.
5. Capri Pants and Shorts:
The Plague on Our Nation
1. Alison Lurie, The Language of Clothes (New York: Henry Holt, 2000), 45.
2. Ibid., 46.
3. Joseph H. Hancock II and Edward Augustyn, “Pants, Trousers,” In Berg Encyclopedia, vol. 10, Global Perspectives.
4. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 113.
5. Ibid., 121.
6. Skirts: Mini, Midi, Maxi, and More
1. Paul Poiret, King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret, trans. Stephen Haden Guest (London: V&A Publishing, 2009), 36.
2. Quentin Bell, On Human Finery, rev. ed. (London: Hogarth Press, 1976), 37.
3. James Laver, Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution Until ToDay (London: G. G. Harrap, 1937), 49–50, 55.
4. Myra Walker, “Miniskirt,” in A – Z of Fashion.
5. Ibid.
6. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages, ed. Sarah Hermsen, vol. 5 (Detroit: UXL, 2004), 908–909.
7. Ralph Graves, ed., “The Midi Muscles In,” Life, August 21, 1970.
8. Valerie Steele, Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, vol. 2 (Farmington Hills, MI: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 2005), 9.
9. Andrew Bolton, Bravehearts: Men in Skirts (London: V&A Publications, 2003), 26–27.
7. Belts: Friend to Soldiers and Vixens
1. www.iceman.it.
2. James Laver, Costume (New York: Hawthorn Books, 1964), 2.
3. Ibid.
4. Valerie Cumming, C. W. Cunnington, and P. E. Cunnington, The Dictionary of Fashion History (Oxford: Berg, 2010), 11.
5. Berg Fashion Library, image of embroidered canvas suspenders, 1840.
8. Dress Shirts: Prudery and Puffery
1. Ester Juhasz, “Jewish Dress in Central and Southwest Asia and the Diaspora,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 5, Central and Southwest Asia.
2. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 97.
3. Ibid., 76 (image).
4. Ibid., 79.
5. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 15.
6. Ibid., 16–17.
9. Ties and Scarves: Color Me Beautiful, Hermès, and Other Cults
1. Jean-Louis Dumas-Hermès, How to Wear Your Hermès Scarf (Paris: Editions Hermès, 1986), 1.
2. Nadine Coleno, The Hermès Scarf: History and Mystique (London: Thames & Hudson, 2009), 29.
3. Andrew Baseman, ed., The Scarf (New York: Stewart, Tabori and Chang, 1989), 50.
4. Coleno, The Hermès Scarf, 18.
5. Baseman, The Scarf, 50.
6. Jan Glier Reeder, High Style: Masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2010), 198.
7. James Laver, Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution Until Today (London: G. G. Harrap, 1937), 22.
8. Simon Doonan, “Bring Back Nancy Red!” The New York Observer, January 8, 2001, www.observer.com/2001/01/bring-back-nancy-red/.
9. Nina Lalli, “Checkered Past: Arafat’s Trademark Scarf Is Now Military Chic,” Village Voice, February 15, 2005, www.villagevoice.com/2005–02–15/nyc-life/checkered-past/.
10. Anna König, “Neckties and Neckwear,” in A – Z of Fashion.
11. Ibid.
12. Avril Hart, Ties (New York: Costume & Fashion Press, 1998), 68.
13. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 9.
10. Vests: Take That, France!
1. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 54.
2. Valerie Cumming, C. W. Cunnington, and P. E. Cunnington, The Dictionary of Fashion History (Oxford: Berg, 2010), 218.
3. Memoirs and Interesting Adventures of an Embroidered Waistcoat (London: printed for and sold by J. Brooke, at the Golden Head, under St. Dunstan’s Church, Fleet-Street, 1751), 12.
4. Ibid., 13.
5. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages, ed. Sarah Hermsen, vol. 5 (Detroit: UXL, 2004), 907–908.
11. Suits: All Hail Beau Brummell!
1. Ian Kelly, Beau Brummell: The Ultimate Man of Style (New York: Free Press, 2006), 5.
2. Colleen Gau, “Conventional Work Dress and Casual Work Dress,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 3, The United States and Canada.
3. Bernhard Roetzel, Gentlemen (Cambridge: Könemann, 2004), 92–93.
4. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 113.
5. Ibid., 114–115.
6. Ibid., 115.
7. Nik Cohn, Today There Are No Gentlemen: The Changes in Englishmen’s Clothes Since the War (London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1971), 29–30.
8. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages, ed. Sarah Hermsen, vol. 5 (Detroit: UXL, 2004), 896.
9. James Laver, Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution Until Today (London: G. G. Harrap, 1937), 20–21.
10. Colleen R. Callahan, “Children’s Clothing,” in A – Z of Fashion.
11. Women’s Wear Daily, “Moment 11: Women Embrace Menswear,” November 1, 2010, www.wwd.com/eye/fashion/moment-11-women-embrace-menswear-3344600?navSection=issues.
12. Melissa Leventon, What People Wore When: A Complete Illustrated History of Costume from Ancient Times to the Nineteenth Century for Every Level of Society (New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 2008), 154–155.
12. Pants: The Truth About Dress Reform
1. By the aptly named designer Amy Sly, www.buzzfeed.com/sly/am-i-wearing-pants.
2. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 15.
3. Quentin Bell, On Human Finery, rev. ed. (London: Hogarth Press, 1976), 64–65.
4. Rosalie Kolodny, Fashion Design for Moderns (New York: Fairchild, 1968), 103.
5. Judith Thurman, “Closet Encounters: Charting the Rise of the Fashionable American Woman,” The New Yorker (May 10, 2010), www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/artworld/2010/05/10/100510craw_artworld_thurman.
6. Joseph H. Hancock II and Edward Augustyn, “Pants, Trousers,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 10, Global Perspectives.
7. Key Moments in Fashion: From Haute Couture to Streetwear, Key Collections, Major Figures and Crucial Moments That Changed the Course of Fashion History from 1890 to the 1990s (London: Hamlyn, 1998), 101.
8. Shaun Cole, “Lesbian and Gay Dress,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 8, West Europe.
13. Hosiery: From the Mayflower to the Bedroom Floor
1. Nan H. Mutnick, “Snapshot: Hosiery,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 3, The United States and Canada.
2. Ibid.
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