Коллектив авторов - Конец моды. Одежда и костюм в эпоху глобализации
- Название:Конец моды. Одежда и костюм в эпоху глобализации
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- Издательство:Литагент НЛО
- Год:2020
- Город:Москва
- ISBN:9785444814048
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316
См., например: Eskjaer M. The Mediatization of Ethical Consumption // MedieKultur. 2013. 54. Pp. 26–46.
317
Rothenbuhler E. W. Continuities: Communicative Form and Institutionalization // Mediatization: Concept, Changes, Consequences / Еd. K. Lundby. New York: Peter Lang, 2009. P. 279.
318
Hepp. Cultures; Lundby. Mediatization. Pp. 3–35.
319
Rocamora A. Mediatization and Digitization in the Field of Fashion // Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 2016. Впервые опубликована онлайн: www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1173349 .
320
Kurnilius R., Reunanen E. Changing Power of Journalism: The Two Phases of Mediatization // Communication Theory. 2016. 26. Pp. 369–388; Rocamora A. The Labour of Fashion Blogging // Fashioning Professionals / Eds L. Armstrong, F. McDowell. Bloomsbury, 2018; Mazzoleni. Changes.
321
Kurnilius, Reunanen. Changing Power. P. 372.
322
Bolter D., Grusin R. Remediation: Understanding New Media. MIT Press, 1999. См.: Rocamora A. Personal Fashion Blogs: Screens and Mirrors in Digital Self-Portraits // Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 2011. Vol. 4.15. Pp. 407–424.
323
Кристоферсон, цит. по: Wrigley N., Lowe M. Reading Retail: A Geographical Perspective on Retailing and Consumption Spaces. London: Arnold, 2002. P. 238.
324
Laudon K. C., Traver C. G. E-commerce 2016: Business. Technology. Society. Boston, MA: Pearson, 2017. P. 731.
325
Рейнолдс, цит. по: Wrigley, Lower. Reading Retail. P. 239.
326
B2C (business-to-consumer, то есть «бизнес для потребителя») – термин, обозначающий вид коммерческих отношений, при котором организация (в данном случае интернет-магазин) работает непосредственно с конечным потребителем (частным покупателем, а не юридическим лицом). ( Прим. пер. )
327
Ecommerce in the United Kingdom // Ecommerce News. Last modified 2017. February. ecommercenews.eu/ecommerce-percountry/ecommerce-the-united-kingdom/ (accessed 10.05.2017).
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E-commerce in the United Kingdom: Facts & Figures 2016 // Twenga. 2016. www.twenga-solutions.com/en/insights/ecommerce-united-kingdom-facts-figures-2016/ (accessed 04.08.2016).
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Retail Sales in Great Britain, Apr 2017 // Office for National Statistics. 2017. www.ons.gov.uk/businessindustryandtrade/retailindustry/bulletins/retailsales/apr2017 (accessed 09.05.2017).
330
Laudon, Traver. E-commerce. 2016. P. 93.
331
Ibid. P. 59.
332
Ibid. P. 60.
333
См. также: Friedberg A. Window Shopping: Cinema and the Postmodern. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1993 [Kindle Edition].
334
См.: Rocamora. New Fashion Times.
335
Friedberg. Window Shopping. P. 64.
336
Патель, цит. по: Lockwood L., Edelson Sh. Instant Fashion: Salvation of Gimmick // WWD, Instant Fashion Special Report. 2016. Np.
337
Laudon, Traver. E-commerce. 2016. P. 734.
338
Kansara V. A. Is the New Style.com Working? // BOF. 2016. www.businessoffashion.com/articles/digital-scorecard/is-condenast-style-com-working (accessed 04.01.2017).
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Rocamora. New Fashion Times.
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Friedberg. Window Shopping.
341
Ibid. P. 106.
342
Саймон, цит. по: Rose F. The Attention Economy 3.0 // The Milken Institute Review: A Journal of Economic Policy. Milken Instituteю. 2015. www.milkenreview.org/articles/the-attention-economy-3-0 (accessed 09.07.2016); см. также: Wissinger E. A. This Year’s Model: Fashion, Media, and the Making of Glamour. New York: New York University Press, 2015. P. 17.
343
См. также: Rocamora. New Fashion Times. P. 70.
344
Codinha A. Meet the New Site That Wants to Take the Legwork Out of Instagram-Stalking for You. 2015. www.vogue.com/article/semaine-online-magazine-concept-store-launches (accessed 12.05.2016).
345
Там же. Слова Хардинг.
346
Style.com Discontinues, Redirects to Farfetch.com . www.vogue.co.uk/article/stylecom-discontinued-conde-nast-partnershipconsolidates-farfetch (accessed 10.07.2017).
347
Altheide D., Snow R. P. Media Logic. London: Sage, 1979.
348
Ibid. P. 240.
349
Ibid. P. 9–10.
350
См. также: Altheide D. L. Media Logic and Political Communication // Political Communication. 2004. 3, no. 21. Pp. 293–296; Mazzoleni. Changes.
351
Ibid. P. 4.
352
См.: Moss M. Shopping as an Entertainment Experience. Lanham: Lexington Books, 2007.
353
Grunenberg Ch. Wonderland: Spectacles of Display from the Bon Marché to Prada // Shopping: A Century of Art and Consumer Culture / Еds Ch. Grunenberg, M. Hollein. Ostfuldern-Ruit: Hatje Cantz Publishers, 2002. P. 18.
354
Ibid. P. 20.
355
См., например: Lundby. Mediatization; Hjarvard. Mediatization.
356
См., например: Deacon, Stanyer. Mediatization; Hepp. Cultures; Krotz. Explaining; Ekström M. et al. Three Tasks for Mediatization Research: Contribution to an Open Agenda // Media, Culture & Society. 2016. Pp. 1–19; Murdock G. Mediatisation and the Transformation of Capitalism: The Elephant in the Room // Javnost-The Public. 2017. ( doi:10.1080/13183222.2017.1290745 ).
357
Kortti J. Media History and the Mediatization of Everyday Life // Media History. 2017. 1, no. 23. Pp. 115–129.
358
Rocamora A. Fashioning the City. London: I. B. Tauris, 2009. P. 27. На русском языке: Рокамора А. Одевая город: Париж, мода и медиа. М.: Новое литературное обозрение, 2017; о куклах-моделях см.: Peers J. The Fashion Doll: From Bébé Jumeau to Barbie. Oxford: Berg, 2004.
359
Ekstrom et al. Three Tasks.
360
Ibid. P. 9.
361
О ранних примерах модных иллюстраций в Sears см.: Cherry R. Catalog: The Illustrated History of Mail-Order Shopping. New York: Princeton Architectural Press, 2008; об истории модных гравюр в первых модных журналах см.: Nevinson J. L. Origin and Early History of the Fashion Plate. 1967; Steele V. Paris Fashion: A Cultural History. Oxford: Berg, 1998. На русском языке: Стил В. Парижская мода. Культурная история / Пер. с англ. Елена Кардаш. М.: Новое литературное обозрение, 2020.
362
См.: Brooks R. Sighs and Whispers in Bloomingdales: A Review of a Bloomingdale Mail-Order Catalogue for Their Lingerie Department // Zoot Suits and Second-Hand Dresses: An Anthology of Fashion and Music / Еd. A. McRobbie. Boston, MA: Unwin Hyman, 1989 [1982].
363
Cherry. Catalog. P. 29.
364
Klinger U., Swenson J. The Emergence of Network Media Logic in Political Communication: A Theoretical Approach // New Media & Society. 2015. 17, no. 8. Pp. 1241–1257.
365
Michelson M., Krog M. Music, Radio and Mediatization // Media Culture & Society. 2016. 4, no. 39. P. 5 (с опорой на: Deacon, Stanyer).
366
Michelson, Krog. Music, Radio. Pp. 5–6.
367
Bolter, Grusin. Remediation.
368
Ibid. P. 45.
369
Ibid. Pр. 50, 200.
370
Ibid. P.
371
Rocamora A. Hypertextuality and Remediation in the Fashion Media: The Case of Fashion Blogs // Journalism Practice. 2012. Pp. 92–106.
372
Lundby K. Introduction: «Mediatization» as key // Mediatization: Concept, Changes, Consequences / Еd. K. Lundby. New York: Peter Lang, 2009. P. 13 (с опорой на: Bolter, Grusin).
373
Altheide, Snow. Media Logic. P. 242.
374
Pine II B. J., Gilmore J. H. The Experience Economy. Boston, MA: Harvard Business School Publishing, 2011.
375
См. также: Finnemann N. O. Mediatization Theory and Digital Media // Communications. 2011. 36. Pp. 67–89.
376
См. также: Couldry. Mediatization; Hepp A. Differentiation: Mediatization and Cultural Change // Mediatization of Communication / Еd. K. Lundby. Berlin: De Gruyter, 2009. Pp. 139–157; Klinger, Svenson. Emergence; Lundby. Mediatization.
377
Mazzoleni. Changes; Klinger, Svenson. Emergence.
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Van Dijk J., Poell Th. Understanding Social Media Logic // Media and Communication. 2013. 1, no. 1. Pp. 2–14.
379
Klinger, Svenson. Emergence.
380
Mazzoleni. Changes (с опорой на: Klinger, Svenson).
381
Rocamora. New Fashion Times.
382
Couldry. Mediatization. См. также Hepp. Differentiation; Hjarvard S. The Mediatization of Society: A Theory of the Media as Agents of Social and Cultural Change // Nordicom Review. 2008. 29, no. 2. Pp. 105–134; Jansson A. Using Bourdieu in Critical Mediatization Research // MedieKultur. 2015. 58. Pp. 13–29.
383
См.: Butler S. Marks & Spencer Takes Control of Its Online Store from Amazon // The Guardian. 2014. www.theguardian.com/business/2014/feb/18/marks-spencer-control-online-shoppingwebsite-amazon (accessed 19.02.2014).
384
Strömbäck J., Esser F. Shaping Politics: Mediatization and Media Interventionism // Mediatization: Concept, Changes, Consequences, ed. K. Lundby. New York: Peter Lang, 2009. P. 213; но см. также: Landerer N. Rethinking the Logics: A Conceptual Framework for the Mediatization of Politics // Communication Theory. 2013. 23. Pp. 239–258.
385
См., например: Eskjaer. The Mediatization of Ethical Consumption. P. 29; Jansson A. The Mediatization of Consumption: Towards an Analytical Framework of Image Culture // Journal of Consumer Culture. 2002. 2, no. 5. Pp. 5–31; Kaun A., Fast K. Mediatization of Culture and Everyday Life. Mediestudier vid Södertörns högskola:1. Karlstad University Studies, 2014.
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