Сьюзан Винсент - Волосы. Иллюстрированная история

При написании этой книги я перестала воспринимать волосы как должное и стала более внимательно их изучать. Я задумалась о своем собственном выборе причесок и о выборе других людей, анализировала подтекст рекламы шампуня и средств для бритья, задавалась вопросом о «загробной» жизни волос, когда они засоряют стоки. Я останавливала свое внимание на внешности актеров в исторических драмах, отмечая компромиссы между задачами повествования, исторической достоверностью и современными предпочтениями. Я читала рекламные объявления в метро о лечении облысения, почти идентичные заявлениям, которые я находила в рукописных рецептах, составленных четыреста лет назад. Простая прогулка по улице стала путешествием в сферу политики идентичности. Волосы имеют основополагающее значение для всех нас. Это часть человеческого бытия. Волосы — странная штука.

DM — Daily Mirror

EH — Victoria Sherrow, Encyclopedia of Hair: A Cultural History. Westport: Greenwood Press, 2006

Foan — Gilbert Foan (ed.). The Art and Craft of Hairdressing: A Standard and Complete Guide to the Technique of Modern Hairdressing, Manicure, Massage and Beauty Culture. London: Sir Isaac Pitman, 1931

MOA — Mass Observation Archive

NYT — New York Times

ODNB — Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, online edition

OED — Oxford English Dictionary, online edition

Pepys — The Diary of Samuel Pepys, ed. Robert Latham and William Matthews. 11 vols. London: G. Bell, 1970–1983

SP 14 — National Archives, State Papers Domestic, James I

SP 29 — National Archives, State Papers Domestic, Charles II

SP 34 — National Archives, State Papers Domestic, Anne

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UP — University Press

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Дневники Джеймса Вудфорда были опубликованы организацией the Parson Woodforde Society (без места публикации). Те, что цитируются в тексте, сокращаются следующим образом:

Woodforde IV — The Ansford Diary of James Woodforde. Volume 4: 1769–1771 / ed. R. L. Winstanley. 1986.

Woodforde VI — The Oxford and Somerset Diary of James Woodforde, 1774–1775 / ed. R. L. Winstanley. 1989.

Woodforde X — The Diary of James Woodforde. Volume 10: 1782–1784 / ed. R. L. Winstanley. 1998.

Woodforde XI — The Diary of James Woodforde. Volume 11: 1785–1787 / ed. R. L. Winstanley and Peter Jameson. 1999.

Woodforde XIII — The Diary of James Woodforde. Volume 13: 1791–1793 / ed. Peter Jameson. 2003.

Woodforde XIV — The Diary of James Woodforde. Volume 14: 1794–1795 / ed. Peter Jameson. 2004.

London, The National Archives, SP 14/107

London, The National Archives, SP 29/101

London, The National Archives, SP 34/12

London, Wellcome Library, Boyle Family, MS.1340

London, Wellcome Library, Bridget Hyde, MS.2990

London, Wellcome Library, Caleb Lowdham, MS.7073

London, Wellcome Library, Elizabeth Okeover (and others), MS.3712

London, Wellcome Library, English Recipe Book, 17th–18th century, MS.7721

London, Wellcome Library, English Recipe Book, MS.7391

London, Wellcome Library, Lady Ann Fanshawe, MS.7113

London, Wellcome Library, Med. Ephemera EPH154, Hair care ephemera, Box 1

London, Wellcome Library, Med. Ephemera EPH160B, Hair care ephemera, Box 9

London, Wellcome Library, Corbyn & Co., chemists and druggists, London, Manufacturing recipe books, 1748–1851, MS.5446–5450

Northampton, MA, Smith College, Rare Book Room Cage, MS 134, Kenelm Digby, Letter Book 1633–1635

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19th Century British Newspapers, gale.cengage.co.uk/

19th Century British Pamphlets (JSTOR), www.jstor.org

19th Century UK Periodicals Series 1: New Readerships, gale.cengage.co.uk/

American Historical Newspapers (ProQuest), search.proquest.com

BBC News, www.bbc.co.uk/news

Daily Mirror Digital Archive, 1903 to present (UKpressonline), www.ukpressonline.co.uk

Early English Books Online (EEBO), eebo.chadwyck.com

Eighteenth Century Collections Online, gale.cengage.co.uk/

The Gentleman’s Journal, www.thegentlemansjournal.com/

Ginger Parrot, gingerparrot.co.uk

The Guardian, www.theguardian.com

Habia: Hair and Beauty Industry Authority, www.habia.org/

Health and Safety Executive UK Government, «Hairdressing», www.hse.gov.uk/hairdressing/

John Steed’s Flat, www.johnsteedsflat.com/index.html

Justice for Magdalenes, www.magdalenelaundries.com/

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Mail Online, www.dailymail.co.uk/

Mass Observation Online, www.massobservation.amdigital.co.uk

MeasuringWorth, www.measuringworth.com/ukcompare/

Mintel Academic, academic.mintel.com/

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Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, www.oxforddnb.com

Oxford English Dictionary, www.oed.com

John Johnson Collection, An Archive of Printed Ephemera, johnjohnson.chadwyck.co.uk

Performing the Queen’s Men, thequeensmen.mcmaster.ca/index.htm

The Scotsman, www.scotsman.com

The Spectator Archive, archive.spectator.co.uk/

State Papers Online, 1509–1714, gale.cengage.co.uk/

Time, time.com/

The Times Digital Archive, 1785 onwards, gale.cengage.co.uk/

U. K. Parliamentary Papers, parlipapers.proquest.com

Wellcome Library, digital collections: recipe books, wellcomelibrary.org/collections/digital-collections/recipe-books/

Athenian Gazette or Casuistical Mercury

The Atlanta Constitution

British Medical Journal

Chelmsford Chronicle

Chicago Daily Tribune

Cincinnati Daily Gazette

Daily Advertiser

Daily Courant

Daily Mirror

Daily News

Daily Post

Devon and Exeter Daily Gazette

The Englishman’s Magazine

Evening Mail

The Evening News

Evening Telegraph and Star and Sheffield Daily Times

General Advertiser (1744)

The Gentleman’s Journal

The Guardian

The Hairdressers’ Journal, devoted to the interests of the profession

Hull Daily Mail

The Lady’s Monthly Museum

The Leeds Mercury

London Chronicle or Universal Evening Post

London Gazette

The Manchester Guardian

Metro

Morning Chronicle

Morning Herald and Daily Advertiser

New Statesman

New York Times

New York Tribune

The Norfolk Chronicle: or, the Norwich Gazette

Oracle and Public Advertiser

The Penny Satirist

The Philadelphia Inquirer

Reads Weekly Journal or British Gazetteer

San Francisco Bulletin

St. James’s Evening Post

The Scotsman

The Sheffield and Rotherham Independent

The Spectator

Star

Time

The Times

The Washington Post

Weekly Journal or British Gazetteer

Whitehall Evening Post or London Intelligencer

The Young Folk’s Budget

Andry de Bois-Regard N. Orthopædia: Or the Art of Correcting and Preventing Deformities in Children. 2 vols. London, 1743.

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Anon. The English Fortune-Teller. London, 1670–1679.

Anon. To her Brown Beard. [London], 1670–1696.

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Beasley H. The Druggist’s General Receipt Book. London: John Churchill, 1850.

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Beeton I. The Book of Household Management. 1861. Facsimile reprint. London: Jonathan Cape, 1977.

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Campbell R. The London tradesman: Being a compendious view of all the trades. London, 1747.

Chamberlain J. The Letters of John Chamberlain / Ed. by N. E. McClure. Philadelphia: American Philosophical Society, 1939. 2 vols.

Chambers A. The ladies best companion: Or A Golden Treasure for the Fair Sex. London, [1775?].

Christie A. The Man in the Brown Suit (1924) / Agatha Christie: 1920s Omnibus. London: HarperCollins, 2006.

Clifford A. The Diaries of Lady Anne Clifford / Ed. by D. J. H. Clifford. Stroud: Alan Sutton, 1990.