Коллектив авторов - Мода и искусство
- Название:Мода и искусство
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- Издательство:Литагент «НЛО»f0e10de7-81db-11e4-b821-0025905a0812
- Год:2015
- Город:Москва
- ISBN:978-5-4448-0412-4
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Коллектив авторов - Мода и искусство краткое содержание
Сборник включает в себя эссе, посвященные взаимоотношениям моды и искусства. В XX веке, когда связи между модой и искусством становились все более тесными, стало очевидно, что считать ее не очень серьезной сферой культуры, не способной соперничать с высокими стандартами искусства, было бы слишком легкомысленно. Начиная с первых десятилетий прошлого столетия, именно мода играла центральную роль в популяризации искусства, причем это отнюдь не подразумевало оскорбительного для искусства снижения эстетической ценности в ответ на запрос массового потребителя; речь шла и идет о поиске новых возможностей для искусства, о расширении его аудитории, с чем, в частности, связан бум музейных проектов в области моды.
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458
Baudrillard J. Symbolic Exchange and Death. London, 1993. P. 62.
459
См. также: Evans C. Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness. New Haven, CT; London, 2009.
460
Leopardi G. Dialogue between Fashion and Death / Trans. by Giovani Cecchetti. 1824; London: Penguin, 1982. Pp. 7–8 (Леопарди Д. Нравственные очерки. Дневник размышлений. Мысли. М., 2000. С. 36).
461
Ibid.
462
Benjamin W. Fashion // The Arcades Project / Trans. by Eiland H., McLaughlin K. London; Cambridge, MA, 1999. P. 71 [T. 4,4].
463
Ibid. P. 63 [T. 1,4].
464
Evans C. Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness. New Haven, CT; London, 2009. P. 6.
465
Haraway D. Simians, Cyborgs, and Women: The Reinvention of Nature. London, 1991. P. 1.
466
См.: Manovich L. The Language of New Media. Cambridge, MA; London, 2002.
467
Appadurai A. Disjuncture and Difference in the Global Cultural Economy // Public Culture. 1990. No. 2.2. P. 5.
468
Evans C. John Galliano: Modernity and Spectacle SHOWstudio. 2001. 15. www.showstudio.com .
469
См.: Ashelford J. The Art of Dress: Clothes Through History 1500–1914. London, 1996; Cumming V. Understanding Fashion History. London, 2004; Stevenson N.J. The Fashion Retrospective // Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 2008. Vol. 12.2. Pp. 219–235; Taylor L. The Study of Dress History. Manchester, UK, 2002, и Establishing Dress History Manchester, UK, 2004; Williams V. A Heady Relationship: Fashion Photography and the Museum, 1979 to the Present // Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 2008. Vol. 12.2. Pp. 197–218.
470
Richards T. The Commodity Culture of Victorian England: Advertising and Spectacle, 1851–1914. London, 1990. P. 17.
471
Greenhalgh P. Ephemeral Vistas: The Expositions Universelles, Great Exhibitions and World’s Fairs, 1851–1939. Manchester, UK, 1988. P. 143.
472
Richards T. The Commodity Culture of Victorian England: Advertising and Spectacle, 1851–1914. London, 1990. P. 39.
473
Good News for the Ladies // Lady’s Newspaper. 1847. January 2. P. 2.
474
Cumming V. Understanding Fashion History. London, 2004.
475
Van Wesemael P. Architecture of Instruction and Delight: A Socio-historic Analysis of World Exhibitions as a Didactic Phenomenon (1798–1851–1970). Rotterdam, 2001. P. 135.
476
Speaking to the Eye // Economist. 1851. May 17. P. 5.
477
The Great Exhibition // Times. 1851. June 7. P. 5.
478
Jury Reports: Reports by the Juries on the Subjects in the Thirty Classes into Which the Exhibition Was Divided. London, 1852. Class XX. P. 482.
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480
Great Exhibition of the Work of Industry of All Nations. Official Descriptive and Illustrated Catalogue: By Authority of the Royal Commission. In 3 Vls. London, 1851. Section III. Class 20. (20) (2Y). P. 575.
481
Popular Guide to the Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations: With a Plan of the Building, Rules for Visitors, and Suggestions for the Guidance of Large Parties Visiting the Exhibition. London, 1851. n.p.
482
Jury Reports: Reports by the Juries on the Subjects in the Thirty Classes into Which the Exhibition Was Divided. London, 1852. Class XX. P. 481.
483
Ими восхищался Густав Флобер, посещавший выставку вместе со своей матерью.
484
The Guide of the Guides for Strangers and Foreigners in London during 1851: To Which Is Added the Royal Albert Hand Map of London, Which Requires No Folding, and by Which the Stranger Can at Once Tell What Part of London He May Be in… London, 1851. n.p.
485
A Visit to the Great Exhibition, Price Sixpence, By One of the Exhibitors. London, 1851. P. 20.
486
Literature // Lady’s Newspaper. 1851. May 10. P. 262.
487
Good News for the Ladies // Lady’s Newspaper. 1847. January 2. P. 2.
488
Ledbetter K. Bonnets and Rebellions: Imperialism in The Lady’s Newspaper // Victorian Periodicals Review. 2004. No. 37. 3. P. 252.
489
Boyer C. The City of Collective Memory: Its Historical Imagery and Architectural Entertainments. Cambridge, MA, 1994. P. 259.
490
The Great Exhibition – Pencillings by a Lady // Lady’s Newspaper. 1851. June 14. P. 333.
491
Fraser H. Stephanie Green, and Judith Johnston, Gender and the Victorian Periodical. Cambridge, UK, 2003. P. 174.
492
Ibid. P. 173.
493
General Observations of Fashion and Dress // Lady’s Newspaper. 1851. May 17. P. 326.
494
The Paris and London Fashions // The Lady’s Newspaper. 1851. May 10. P. 264.
495
General Observations on Fashion and Dress // Lady’s Newspaper. 1851. June 7. P. 320.
496
The Great Exhibition // Times. 1851. April 28. P. 5.
497
Rambles through the Crystal Palace // Lady’s Newspaper. 1851. May 17. P. 276.
498
Fountain of Perfume // Lady’s Newspaper. 1851. May 10. P. 262.
499
Rambles in the Crystal Palace // Lady’s Newspaper. 1851. May 31. P. 295.
500
The Great Exhibition – Pencillings by a Lady // Lady’s Newspaper. 1851. June 14. P. 333.
501
Cursory Remarks on the Hyde-Park Palace // Lady’s Newspaper. 1851. July 26. P. 42.
502
Ibid.
503
Good News for the Ladies // Lady's Newspaper. 1847. January 2. P. 2.
504
Goldstein Museum of Design. goldstein.design.umn.edu/education/ .
505
Taylor L. Establishing Dress History. Manchester, UK; N.Y., 2004. P. 184.
506
Heinemann B. Fashioning an Artful Life: One Woman’s Life History in Clothes. University of Minnesota, 2008. P. 64 (диссертация).
507
Ibid. Pp. 61–62.
508
Wright T. American Art and Artists. Irvington, NY, 2007. Pp. 172–173.
509
Burk Uzzle. Just Add Water. 2005. www.laurencemillergallery.com/uzzle_water.htm .
510
Heinemann B. Fashioning an Artful Life: One Woman’s Life History in Clothes. University of Minnesota, 2008. P. 64 (диссертация).
511
Ibid. Pp. 149–150.
512
Johnson A. Handbags: The Power of the Purse. N.Y., 2002. P. 36.
513
Smith R. Art with Baggage in Tow [рецензия] // New York Times. 2008. April 4. www.nytimes.com/2008/04/04/arts/design/04mura.html .
514
Riding A. Vuitton Plans a Gehry-Designed Arts Center in Paris // New York Times. Art and Design. 2008. October 3. www.nytimes.com/2006/10/03/arts/design/03arna.html .
515
Сайт музея Виктории и Альберта. Collections, Beck’s beer bottle labels. www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/26231-popup.html .
516
Morrisroe P. The Punk Glamour God // New York Magazine. 2004. March 29. nymag.com/nymetro/arts/features/n_10106/ .
517
Is Fashion a True Art Form? // Observer. 2003. July 13. www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/2003/jul/13/art.artsfeatures1 .
518
Ibid.
519
Chanel. Mobile Art Container. www.chanel-mobileart.com/ .
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